A Short History of Lace Making
There is no satisfactory answer to the
question “when was lace first made”? Lace making as we know it did not just start at a certain time in the past, or a paticular place.
In the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, there is to be seen the oldest example of lace traced so far,
called mummy lace. This lace was made in Egypt
many centuries BC and specimens of it have been recovered from ancient tombs.
So on this evidence alone there can be no doubt at all of the early origin of
lace-making.
Through the centuries several methods of making
lace gradually spread further a field, chiefly to those countries bordering the
Mediterranean. Probably a form of Macramé, no bobbins. The technique was altered
and improved over the years until it eventually developed into the use of
either needle or bobbins.
Lace Making in Europe
During the course of time the bobbin lace making
industry extended all over Europe, and in some countries, like France
and Belgium, it became a very important industry. It was so important that France
attracted the skilled workers from Italy to France. Naturally Italy was
not happy about the drift of her skilled workers to France, so concerned in fact that they issued a decree which read:
Anyone who practised his art in a foreign
land (meaning France) will be ordered to return, should he disobey this order
his nearest of kin will be imprisoned, on his return he will be pardoned for
the offence, and employment will be found for him, Should he not return an
emissary will be commissioned to kill him, and the next of kin held in prison
will only be released on his death.
This was between 1698 and 1788 when 9
thousand lace makers lived in Alencon and surrounding district.
Lace Making in England
Between 1563 and 1568 refugees came to England
from Spain. They were Protestants, and many of these refugees were skilled in
pillow lace. They settled in Devon and eventually became the South Devon Lace industry.
100yrs later 25 thousand lace makers lived
in the Devon area, this included the local people who had been taught by the refugees.
More refugees came after the French
revolution in 1794-5
The Midland lace industry was started by groups of refugees who wandered north
to Bedfordshire, probably encouraged by the powerful Russell family at Woburn and the Gascoigne family at Cardington Manor.
When Heathcotes of Tiverton in 1810-1820
invented the net making machine, it was disaster for the lace makers. When
Heathcotes progressed to making lace by machine things were even worse.
A great boost was given to the industry in
1839 when Queen Victoria ordered her wedding dress and veil to be made of Honiton lace. She
also ordered a Christening robe for her first child. (still being worn by royal
babies) At the time Anne Fowler of Honiton (1839-1929 90yrs old when she died) did a great deal to
improve the quality of lace. She held the Royal Warrant for many years.
Lace-making as a cottage industry was on
the wane by the beginning of the last century, and by the 1920’s lace was only
made by those making lace for themselves. By 1960 only 1 or 2 lace-makers were
left who were able to pass on their skill as a hobby, During the 1980’s
lace-making became a fast growing hobby, very popular with all ages.
St Catherine’s Day
November 25th
Martyr, 310AD
St. Catherine of Alexandria, reputedly one
of the most intelligent and beautiful woman of her day.
Tradition has it that Catherine was a girl of a noble family who,
because of her Christian faith, refused marriage with the emperor as she was
already a ‘bride of Christ’. She is said to have disputed with fifty
philosophers whose job it was to convince her of her error, and she proved
superior in argument to them all. She was tortured by being splayed on a wheel
and finally beheaded.
Her fame reached Europe with the
Crusaders and the Catherine Wheel firework and Catherine or Rose window were
named after her.
St. Catherine was taken as the protector of young unmarried girls. the
wheel of her death also became the emblem of spinners and Lace-makers, and
would you believe Wood turners. On her day, Lace-makers would hold their annual
holiday.
We even have our own cake, Cattern cake.
National lace maker’s day in held on the 2nd Saturday in September each
year.
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